Holiday Villas & Cottages magazine explores the delights of the Tamar Valley, near Plymouth.

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Calstock is dominated by its impressive viaduct

The mine workings are halfway up the valley-side, on a bend so that from the edge of the lawn you can see quite a long way up and down stream. The Tamar is still tidal at this point, so its appearance changes a lot during the day. Every sound from the river floats up to Okel Tor ‐ the squabbling of ducks, the gurgling of the water and even the quiet conversations of passing canoeists. At night, the loudest sound is the occasional hooting of owls. The area is also a haven for bats ‐ every British species has been recorded here.

Steps run down from the cottages to join the public path that has been created through the site. It provides a fascinating mixture of industrial archaeology tour and wildlife walk, descending through woodland to the riverbank.

So peaceful are the cottages that they are particularly popular with honeymooners and those seeking quiet to complete a project ‐ writers, artists, academics and musicians have all found Okel Tor the ideal setting for creative work. And Greg and Nick would love to see couples celebrating their tenth ‐ ‘Tin’ ‐ wedding anniversaries. But anyone who enjoys the simple pleasure of a beautiful setting will be charmed by the cottages.

Information board on the wildlife walk

The Smithy, where we stayed, has a sitting room/kitchen, double bedroom with en suite bathroom and ‐ perhaps its crowning glory ‐ a verandah that’s an ideal place to eat, read or simply enjoy the view, whatever the weather. While its status as a listed building ensures that it retains much of its original workaday external appearance, inside it’s a gem with heated slate floors, a wood-burning stove and a careful craftsmanship and use of space that reveals Nick’s trade as a boatbuilder.

While my enquiry as to the availability of a broadband connection was met by a chuckle, the more important considerations are fully met ‐ effective heating, plenty of hot water, good quality bedlinen and towels, dry logs and a full complement of kitchen equipment.

You reach Okel Tor from Gunnislake, ending up on the little lane over the level crossing. The final stretch is on a downhill woodland track that might challenge a low-slung car. Carry on down the track for a couple of hundred yards and you reach a direct lane into Calstock, or you can walk along a broad curve of riverbank. Either way, it’s no more than a 15-minute walk. Calstock in December is pretty (and pretty quiet), but the area is getting quite a foody reputation and while the Tamar Inn provided excellent ham, egg and chips for lunch, the Boot Inn is highly recommended for more ambitious eating. And if you really want to push the boat out, the Horn of Plenty, a few miles away at Gulworthy, has a reportedly well-deserved Michelin star.

The soaring railway viaduct dominates views of Calstock. It seems a bit wasted on a single-track branch line, but no one should miss a trip across it. We took the train into Plymouth, which takes about 40 minutes and provides wonderful views not only across the viaduct but further down the river as it is joined by the Tavy, streaming down from Dartmoor. It broadens into an estuary, passing beneath the twin Tamar bridges (Brunel’s rail masterpiece and the 1960s road suspension bridge) and then through Devonport into Plymouth. In summer, you can do the trip one way by river cruiser, the other by train.

Barbican, Plymouth

Plymouth is certainly worth a day out. You can walk from the station to the famous Hoe in only a few minutes on an almost completely pedestrianised route. A stroll along the seafront brought us to the Barbican, with its vestiges of old Plymouth and recent quayside refurbishment. With a bit more time, I’d love to visit the Plymouth Gin museum. Back in the centre, the shopping is good, with the spacious, wide-open-spaces feel of the 1950s layout making it a less frantic experience than elsewhere.

Okel Tor’s position, on the boundary between Cornwall and Devon, means the attractions of both counties are within easy reach. North and south coast beaches are less than 20 miles away, wild country enthusiasts can choose between Bodmin Moor and Dartmoor, while for walkers there is the Tamar Discovery Trail from Plymouth to Launceston. Perhaps the best way to see the Tamar, though, is by canoe. Canoe Tamar offers guided trips in Canadian canoes.

If you want to see where some of the profits from the mining were spent, visit the nearby market town of Tavistock. A 19th century Duke of Bedford owned much of the surrounding area, including some of the best mining land. Awash with money, he demolished the mediaeval centre of Tavistock and replaced it with an exercise in Victorian town planning. As a result there’s a huge square, a wide boulevard, a gothic-looking town hall and a municipal park complete with bandstand. There’s also a thriving arts centre, a newish sports centre and pool, some intriguing shops and the famous pannier market, where the market gardeners of the Tamar Valley used to sell their wares. The fresh food focus has now shifted to a successful farmer’s market (Bedford Square, alternate Saturdays).

Also worth a visit is Cotehele House, a mile or so from Calstock. Owned by the National Trust, this mediaeval manor house has an almost original interior and marvellous gardens. Over on the Devon side of the river is Morwellham Quay, from where much of the area’s mineral output was shipped. It’s been restored as a Victorian visitor centre. There’s also a pub, though sadly the beer is no longer 3d a pint!

Three days certainly wasn’t long enough to do any more than scratch the surface of what this fascinating area has to offer. I rather fancy a week in springtime, when the days are longer and the hedgerows bloom with daffodils. There’s much, much more to learn about the Tamar Valley.